It’s Spring, so that means it’s officially time for asparagus even though it seems there is rarely a time that it isn’t available at the grocery store.  It’s probably one of our favorite vegetables,  so often in the “green & healthy” rotation around here for one meal or another if the price isn’t too crazy.  Most often, I saute it simply in olive oil with onion or shallots, a bit of garlic and lemon zest.  We bake it, grill it, enjoy it in soup, frittatas, omelettes, salads, and more often without hollandaise than with it.

As much as I pride myself on knowing quite a bit about the vegetables I enjoy, I was surprised to find out even more.

Ten Things:  Did you know that:

#1  asparagus is grown in the US states of Washington, Michigan, Illinois, New Jersey and California (which grows 80% of the nearly 200 million lbs. of the US crop). Otherwise, it’s grown extensively in Mexico, Peru, and China.

#2  it can grow as much as 10″ in 24 hours and that size does matter (the thicker the spear, the better the quality). The writer takes no responsibility for any connections the reader might make which are of a sexual nature.  *snort*

3#  asparagus contains glutathione (GSH) which happens to be the most powerful detoxifier in the body.

#4  the average American eats between 1-2 lbs. of asparagus per year as compared to 18.5 lbs. tomatoes.

#5  ancient Greeks and Romans thought asparagus might relieve a toothache or prevent a bee sting.

#6  asparagus contains rutin, a bioflavonoid vital to capillary strength and increasing circulation in the lower limbs.

#7  asparagus is a super source of folacin which helps not only with the duplication of cells, but growth and repair.

#8   it is a member of the lily family.

#9  after the asparagus harvest, the spears grow into ferns with red berries.

#10 asparagus is better suited to be grown locally more than any other vegetable.

Have you ever tried asparagus raw?  It’s my new favorite way to eat it.

Shaved Asparagus and Pecorino Romano Salad

1 lb. fresh, raw asparagus

5-6 shavings of pecorino romano cheese

the juice of 1/2 lemon

1-2 T extra virgin olive oil

sea salt & freshly ground pepper

Trim the woody ends if any and discard.  Cut the tip from each spear, then using a sharp vegetable peeler, shave along the length of each spear, flipping from top to bottom as you go.  Place the asparagus shavings on a large plate along with the tips and squeeze the lemon juice over.  Toss lightly with your hand.  Drizzle the olive oil over and season with salt and pepper.  Top with pecorino romano shavings.

Notes:

• This salad was adapted from one I first saw in Mario Batali’s Molto Gusto:  Easy Italian Cooking.  The biggest difference is that he suggests a lemon vinaigrette made with lemon marmalade.  I wasn’t thrilled with that idea since I immediately thought of something sweet, but I haven’t tried it, so…
• My husband loved this salad.  Loved.
• This is a perfect recipe to choose the fattest asparagus spears you can find.  If they’re not available, then choose pencil-thin spears that easily snap when bent.
• I love using my little ceramic veggie peeler for this.  It runs right through each stalk leaving little or no waste.  It also saves me from having to get out the mandoline.
• Pecorino romano is a dry cheese with a heady aroma made of sheep’s milk that can be grated, crumbled, or shaved.  It’s slightly salty and has a bit of a sharp, nutty taste that isn’t as strong as that of Parmasean in my opinion.  You might recoil when you see the price tag ($17/lb.), but in the long run, you’re getting quite a bit of quality and flavor for that price — and it goes a long way.  It’s perfect with this salad.  It’s also very satisfying to nibble a little bit of it to stave off cravings for other things higher in carbs and calories.
• I was tempted to add some proscuitto, but now think it would make the salad too salty.
• A bit of crumbled hard-boiled egg would be a lovely addition.
• Make this with the best quality ingredients — its simplicity will allow you to enjoy all of the flavors.
• What might you add to this salad to put your own spin on it?  Let me hear about it when you do!

For more information about asparagus, refer to the following sources:

Asparagus : Farmology

Sustainablog: “What Asparagus Tells Us About Our Food Future” (An excellent site overall, rich with information regarding all things “green.”)

California Asparagus Commission: “Asparagus ‘Tips’”

Discovery Channel:  The Skinny On…“Why Asparagus Makes Your Pee Stink”

CDC:  Fruits & Veggies Matter “Fruit of the Month Asparagus”

And if you’re someone interested in growing asparagus, this is a great piece:

The New York Times: “Cuttings; Now You Don’t See It, Now You Do:  Asparagus.”

I’ve been trying to write something here for days now.  I approach the task with the best intentions but know that it’s really only my conscience goading me.  No words come.  I scrounge for a memory worth sharing, then wonder if it’s one I’ve already written about and catch myself wanting to waste time sorting through archived posts to make sure.  It’s an old procrastination ruse, so I’m onto it most of the time.

Photos of recipes I’ve tried and liked are accumulating, waiting for something to be said about them, or the ingredients they were made with,  whether they’re in season, local, organic….or not.  Because you know, that matters, right?

I can’t muster up the energy because it all sounds so trivial.

I’m like an ostrich avoiding reality.  I’d rather edit photos (which qualifies at least as legitimate procrastination), or sprawl on my bedroom floor in front of the big windows on this blustery day watching the storm come in off the Pacific — probably the last we’ll have until next winter.  Mother Nature seems to have gotten March all wrong this year, with its entrance more like that of a lamb’s and its exit resembling a lion’s — at least in San Diego.

I could grab a book and lose myself for a while or think again for what seems to be the millionth time about whether the windows need drapes, and whether I should make them myself — except I’m not sure which closet that sewing machine is in and even if I did, my heart wouldn’t be into it.

A walk in the rain would also be nice, but the force of the wind is rattling the skylights and whistling down the chimneys.  I’d make it out the door and realize how silly a decision it was since I’m nothing like the thin woman clad in white who just sprinted past my window, nor like anyone the Brontës might write about, a thin figure whose dark dress is flapping about her ankles on the hauntingly beautiful Yorkshire moors and proof of a pained existence etched across her brow.

So ridiculously unfocused and thinking none of it really matters.

I’ve been thinking about perspective quite a bit this past week.  Counting my blessings.  Thinking about life, loss, what I take for granted (see foolish exhibits A, B, C, and D above) and what others in the world right now have lost and may never, ever recover.  I’m watching it on the news, in the photos that stream through a variety of websites, and can’t begin to understand.  How can anyone not actually experiencing the magnitude of such devastation understand?  I’m weighing the pettiness of any complaint, feeling short with others for their narrow mindedness, and all in all just very sad and angry.

It’s overwhelming.

So on this first day of spring and all it traditionally represents with respect to birth, new growth, and renewal, I hope the best for people in so many places on Earth right now devastated by things beyond their control.

If you’re someone who has thought about donating to a relief fund for Japan’s recovery, you may be interested in this piece by Stephanie Strom from the New York Times, “Charities Rush to Help Japan, With Little Direction.”

Donations can be made directly to the International Federation of Red Cross and Red Crescent Societies.

More information about other ways to help are listed in “The Lede” at The New York Times:  “Japan Earthquake and Tsunami:  How to Help”

Lasagne with Béchamel and Spring Vegetables

1/2 lb. no-boil lasagne noodles

3 T olive oil

3 zucchini, sliced thinly lengthwise

1 c. frozen peas

salt & pepper to taste

1 lg. sweet onion, sliced thinly

2 sm. leeks, split, rinsed and sliced thinly, white and light green parts only

2 lg. cloves garlic, minced

1-1/2 c. ricotta

1 tsp. fresh lemon zest

1 T fresh chopped chives

pinch of cayenne

2 c. Bechamel

1/2 lb. fresh mozarella, sliced

1/3 c. Fontina, grated

1/3 c. asagio, freshly grated

1/3 c. pecorino romano, freshly grated

For the Béchamel…

2 c. milk

1/4 c. chopped onion

1 bay leaf

pinch of salt

a few cranks of freshly ground pepper

4 T unsalted butter

1/4 c. all-purpose flour

a bit of freshly grated nutmeg

a bit of cayenne

To make the Béchamel…

To a medium saucepan, add the milk, onion, bay leaf, and seasonings.  Over medium heat, bring to a low simmer, stirring occasionally until reduced by a quarter.  Pour through a fine-meshed strainer and set aside.  Heat the milk in the microwave so that it’s not quite hot and have it ready to pour.

Rinse out the sauce pan and melt the butter over medium heat, stirring in the flour and over low heat stirring, allow to cook 2-3 minutes to get the floury taste from it.  After it’s bubbling, whisk quickly while pouring the milk into the flour mixture.  It will immediately begin to thicken, so keep stirring until all of the milk is incorporated.  Over low heat and stirring occasionally, continue to cook for 20 minutes until very thick.  Set aside until ready to use.

To make the lasagne…

Prepare the zucchini first by heating the oven to 450 degrees F.  On a parchment lined baking sheet, arrange zucchini slices in a single layer and drizzle with olive oil.  Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper.  Bake for about 5 minutes, or until the slices are dry and beginning to brown.  Remove from oven and allow to cool.  Turn the oven heat down to 350 degrees F.

Saute the leeks and onions in a bit of the olive oil until softened, about 5 minutes, and remove from the heat.  Mix the ricotta with the lemon zest, chives, pinch of cayenne and salt in a small  bowl and set aside.  Have the frozen peas ready.

Spray a 9×13″ pan lightly with oil and spoon a liberal amount of the Béchamel into the pan.  Spread over the bottom surface area.  Layer the no-boil pasta over the top of the Béchamel — about 1/3 of the noodles.  Spread a third of the ricotta mixture over the noodles, a third of the onion-leek mixture, over the ricotta, a third of the frozen peas, and 7-8 strips of the zucchini.  Sprinkle a bit of the minced garlic over the zucchini and lightly season with salt and pepper.

Repeat twice, ending with the last zucchini strips.  To finish, layer the fresh mozzarella slices over the top of the zucchini, add the grated asagio and pecorino romano, and finish with the remainder of the Bechamel.

Bake about 40-45 minutes or until the lasagne is bubbling and beginning to brown.  Allow to sit at least 15 minutes before serving.

Notes:

• Béchamel is a versatile sauce which can be used to make great macaroni and cheese, or sausage “gravy” and biscuits to name a few simple dishes I grew up with.  My mother called it “white sauce” though, and that works for me.  Think equal parts butter to flour and then add milk and seasonings and she was ready to go with it.  I know she’d scratch her head over the cooking time in this recipe, as did I, because I thought it would be burnt, but it wasn’t.  Very, very thick?  Yes, so there’s no “drizzling” with this as the original recipe directs.  It’s tasty stuff, though.
• the kitchn has a great piece on “Soup to Souffle:  6 Ways to Use Béchamel” for more ideas on what Béchamel can be used for
• This absolutely wonderful recipe was adapted from “Spring Vegetable Lasagne” as published in Frank Sitt’s Bottega Favorita:  A Southern Chef’s Love Affair With Italian Food.  The flavor is mild and satisfying without that cheese overload I don’t appreciate in some of the more traditional lasagne recipes I’ve tried over the years.  The peas and zucchini work nicely together with the sweetness of the onions and leeks.  Very nice.
• The original recipe calls for whole milk ricotta, a whole pound of fresh mozzarella, and whole milk for the Béchamel, but I used low-fat milk, ricotta, and only half the quantity of mozzarella.  It was quite tasty.
• I haven’t had great results with some brands of no-boil noodles, but the 365 brand from Whole Foods surprised me (no I’m not being paid to say that).  Often when I bake pasta, I use regular noodles without boiling, and they work fine as long as the filling is moist enough.  I don’t think that would work in this recipe because it’s not floating in the sauce (which is fine by me).  To use regular noodles, boil them until al dente, drain, and lay on a clean towel until used in the recipe and bake as directed above.
• If you don’t want a pronounced garlic flavor, then saute the garlic with the onions and leeks to mellow it out.
• I was tempted to add some sauteed mushrooms to this and decided not to, but know I’d love it.
• This is one of those forgiving recipes I’m sure you could do just about anything with with respect to ingredients and quantities.  There are quite a few steps, but it really doesn’t take that much time to construct.
• Make it ahead as written, allow it to cool at room temperature, then cover and chill.
• To freeze, cool and cut into about 6 big sections, then wrap well.  To serve after freezing, thaw in the microwave before reheating.  Very tasty like this as well.

There are some flavor combinations I never tire of regardless of what time of the year it is.  The classic flavors of basil and tomato with a sprinkle of minced red onion, squirt of lemon, and drizzle of fruity extra virgin olive oil will always entice me. Equally delicious are chopped fresh tomatos, green onions, cilantro, and jalapenos with lime juice — a combination so perfect, I can easily skip the tortilla chips and head right for a spoon to enjoy the salty-tart-spicy flavor that would never be the same without cilantro.  I think I love cilantro even more than basil.

But another combination has come close to pushing both of the others aside as being tops in my mind — or my mouth:  roasted peppers, capers, and briny olives. Ironically, the flavors in this combination would work quite well with many of the others I’ve mentioned, but I enjoy them in a mix like this one — assertively delicious with the unexpected addition of anchovies.

Anchovies?  Those little fish in the can with the curly lid that when I’m ordering a pizza to go topped with “the works” I always politely decline?  The little salty things whose absence would leave a Caesar’s salad an unappetizing plate of flavorless lettuce, and pasta puttanesca without anything to be sassy about beyond a sprinkle of dried red pepper flakes.

Do any of us ever really say we like anchovies?  Probably not, but the key to learning to stop avoiding them is to see them as an ingredient to be mixed with others instead of sitting on top of a pizza.  If the anchovies were mixed into the tomato sauce instead, it would intensify the flavor leaving us to wonder what made it so good.

Think about it.  How many other ingredients which enhance one another when mixed together are basically unpleasant when eaten alone?  Capers.  I’ve tasted them just to see, and they’re quite bitter.  Or in most recipes which call for capers, the directions will advise rinsing them first.  For years, I did just that, and to make sure I understood why, I tasted the brine.  Not pleasant.  But when it’s mixed into many other ingredients, it’s quite fabulous.  Soy sauce, fish sauce, vinegar — all are less than pleasant when tasted alone.

Freshly roasted peppers, on the other hand, are perfect alone sprinkled lightly with salt, but they’re truly delicious in this mix. It’s perfect tossed with pasta for a salad when you don’t feel like cooking, or spooned over grilled meat or fish.  It’s helps make an omelet interesting and is especially excellent spread over a piece of crusty bread slathered with goat cheese.

It’s the best party food even if you’re the only one at the party, because then you don’t have to share.

Be brave.  Don’t forget the anchovies.

Fresh Roasted Pepper and Olive Bruschetta

4 bell peppers, any color, roasted

1 c. good olives, such as kalamatas, cerignola, or picholine

4 anchovies, oil-packed

2 T capers

2 big pinches chopped fresh rosemary

2 cloves garlic, minced

splash red wine vinegar

drizzle of extra virgin olive oil

goat cheese

crusty bread

Roast the peppers whole on the stove top over an open flame or cut in half and placed on a baking sheet under the broiler until skin is well blackened.  Wrap in a clean, soft cloth about 15 minutes, then remove the peelings, the stem, and the seeds.  Do not rinse the peppers.

Slice the peppers into thin strips and add them to a bowl with all ingredients except the goat cheese and bread.

Slice the bread into rounds, or into sandwich sized lengths, drizzle very lightly with olive oil and rub with a clove of garlic.  Broil or grill until golden.

To serve, spread some goat cheese on the toast, and spoon over some of the roasted pepper salad.

Swoon.

Mix everything but bread and cheese in a bowl

Toast bread, spread cheese, spoon roasted pepper mix over

Notes:

• This recipe was adapted from one of Mario Batali’s published in Food & Wine.  Credit to him for getting me to try the anchovies like this.  So good.
• I know olives can be difficult to find at times.  When I look at the kind of olives stocked in my grocery store, it’s a bit ridiculous.  There are essentially two choices:  canned black and “Spanish.”  Lots and lots of labels, can sizes, sliced or unsliced…really?  I can find kalamatas as well, but they never have the shelf space that the typical American olives do.  Food times have changed — why hasn’t the shelf space in markets?  Do people still eat that many plain black olives?  Thankfully, there is an olive bar, so I’m able to try a different variety from time to time.  When I really want to sample different varieties, Whole Foods is the best source here.
• “Give Anchovies Another Chance” is a great article about anchovies.  Take a look.
• On the bruschetta:  We think it’s easier to mince some fresh garlic and add it to a couple of glugs of extra virgin olive oil and let it sit a bit before brushing it on the bread.  Rubbing that piece of garlic over the surface of the bread is maddening, but maybe I’m just not gifted in that particular skill.
• More on the bruschetta:  Unless you enjoy eating soggy food, plate the toast, goat cheese, and a bowl of the roasted pepper and olive mix so that guests can make their own bruschetta.
• Make this ahead — the flavors intensify and are even better after they’ve had some time to mix.  Cover and leave at room temperature instead of putting it in the fridge.

I know I’m not alone in having had the experience of finding something long forgotten — if noticed missing at all.  The purses sitting just beyond a comfortable reach on the top shelf of my closet are veritable treasure troves when I finally decide one or two should be sent to the Good Will.  I recently found a gift certificate to a local book store dated June, 2000, ink smeared and dog eared. Cleaning out a junk drawer usually turns up a few movie passes, that button that popped off a favorite sweater I vowed to sew back on, and a recipe for margaritas torn from the local paper years ago.  One never knows when a truly excellent margarita could come in handy.

Writing a food blog has its similar moments.  More often, they’re comprised of instances when I finally remember exactly which recipe inspired that gorgeous set of photos taken last spring.  Or after doing a bit of endless organizing, I inadvertently find yet another list of bookmarks for recipes I want to try. And there’s also the class act of flipping through cookbooks for inspiration, seeing a recipe that looks familiar and realizing it is the one I’ve searched everywhere for but couldn’t find.  I forgot to tag it, my notes were written on a piece of scrap paper instead of my dated notebook, and the scrap is buried in the junk drawer.  Yes!  That recipe!  Elation quickly turns to dispair when I remember that the recipe was one I gave up all hope of finding.  The one I deleted most of the photos for because at some point, I can’t save a million photos of food I’ll never write anything about.  Yes, 10 or 12 thousand, but not a million.

It’s a vicious cycle and I’m on a quest to be truly organized with it all if anything to save time.

Here are some chocolate tarts I found in the depths of my photo library, the recipe just rediscovered, and…well, see above.  If you’re caught up in the throes of getting organized and need a bit of a boost, or want something decadently chocolate after a special meal, you’ll love these tarts made with a chocolate short dough crust and a soft bittersweet chocolate ganache.  They’re decadently rich and perfect for sharing.

Dark Chocolate Tartelettes

Makes four 4-inch tartelettes

For the tart shells…

1-1/2 c. all-purpose flour

1/2 c. unsweetened cocoa powder

1/2 lb. butter, room temperature

1/2 c. powdered sugar

For the filling…

8 oz. semisweet chocolate

2 T unsalted butter, at room temperature

1-1/2 c. heavy cream

2 T strong coffee or espresso

Make the crust first by sifting the flour and cocoa powder together into a medium sized bowl.

In the bowl of a standing mixer using the paddle attachment, add the butter and beat on low for 2 minutes to soften it further.  Add the powdered sugar and mix just until blended, less than a minute.  Scrape down the sides.  Pour in the flour and cocoa mixture and beat again on low just until blended, less than a minute.

Scrape the dough from the mixer bowl, make a ball, then flatten into a disc and wrap well with plastic.  Refrigerate at least 4 hours.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

When the dough if well chilled, divide into four equal pieces.  On a work surface lightly dusted with flour, roll a piece of dough into a 1/4″ thickness and a diameter of about 6 inches to fit in a 4″ tart pan with a removable bottom.  Gently press the dough into the tart pan making sure the dough fits into the fluted edges.  Trim excess  dough and place the crust in the refrigerator while the remaining three crusts are formed.  Make sure all have been chilled at least 15 minutes before baking.

To blind bake the shells, prick the bottom of each with a fork several times, then cover each with a square of foil and fill with pie weights, dried beans, pasta, or rice.  Bake in the lower third of the oven 15-18 minutes, then remove the foil and pie weights and bake for an additional 7-8 minutes.  Remove from the oven and cool completely on a baking rack before filling.

To prepare the ganache filling, chop the chocolate into small pieces and add it along with the butter to a large ovenproof measuring cup or bowl.  Heat the cream, just bringing it to a boil, then pour it over the chocolate and butter.  Make sure the chocolate is completely covered by the cream before allowing it to sit about a minute.  Using a spatula, begin slowly stirring the mixture until it is completely melted and is 90 degrees.  Pour in the coffee and mix well.  Fill each tart shell with the ganache and chill until set — at least 1 hour before serving.

Using a sharp cheese cutter or potato peeler, shave some chocolate over each tart if desired.

Press the dough into the tart pans and trim

Prick, fill with pie weights and blind bake

Fill with chocolate ganache and chill

Notes:

• This recipe was adapted from Sherry Yard’s “Deep, Dark Chocolate Tart” from The Secrets of Baking.
• Basic ganache is essentially an equal mixture of chocolate and cream.  It can be made in soft, medium, or firm consistencies depending on what you want to use it for.  A soft consistency contains twice the cream to chocolate, and a firm consistency twice the amount of chocolate to cream.
• The key to keeping the crust from getting tough is keeping it cool.  If your kitchen is hot, keep the balls of dough in the refrigerator while you work on one at a time.  Or roll out one large piece of dough to 1/4″ thickness, lightly fold it into a half, then quarter and put it back in the refrigerator for at least 15 minutes before cutting four 6″ circles from the dough.
• I made my tarts a day ahead and kept them in the refrigerator over night.  They become quite firm when chilled but will keep nicely until you’re ready to serve up to two days if necessary.
• Truly intense chocolate flavor guaranteed to satisfy any chocolate craving.

Decadently rich!

The dog days of summer seemed to have passed us by this year without ever actually arriving, unless you consider the phrase to have more to do with one’s lethargy than hot, sultry weather.   The windows are open, and from time to time, chilly breezes waft through the house forcing me to don a sweater but I acknowledge that it’s worth not having to tolerate the excessive heat everyone else seems to be dealing with this year. I prefer cool weather and this morning, we’re shrouded in fog, with large puffs of it lazily slipping past the kitchen window.  It feels more like spring than summer on most days, and so of course daydreams abound and hours pass with much less accomplished than I like to admit.  Even cooking has had little appeal, odd if you’re someone like me who measures life in food years.  Is there such a thing?

It would seem then, that dinner should be something cool and light to share with those sweltering in a too hot summer.  And for me, it should be something to work on slowly as thoughts come and go, with no particular focus.  Unlike other tasks begun and left to be finished in a day or so, at least I know dinner will happen.  It will be flavorful, fresh, and worth every single bite.

Like a BLT, without the bread.

BLT Salad with Blue Cheese Dressing

Before you make the dressing…

Garlic Confit

1 c. garlic cloves

2 c. canola oil

Peel the garlic cloves and trim the root end of each.  In a small sauce pan, pour the oil, making sure to cover the cloves by 1 inch.  Heat gently over medium low heat, making sure than only tiny bubbles rise from the bottom as it cooks, adjusting heat when necessary.  Cook about 40 minutes, making sure to stir occasionally.  The garlic should be soft and easily pierced when finished.  Remove the pan from the heat and allow the garlic to cool in the pan.  Store in the fridge and a sealed container with the garlic completely covered by the oil.  Use both the garlic and the oil within a week.

Aioli

4 lg. egg yolks

2 c. garlic oil (see above)

1 T + 1 tsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 tsp. sea salt

Pulse the egg yolks in the bowl of a food processor.  With the motor running, pour a thin but steady stream of the garlic oil into the bowl until the mixture is thick and translucent.  Add the lemon juice and sea salt, blending briefly.  Scrape out into a lidded container and store in the fridge for up to 1 week.

To make the dressing...

1 c. aioli (see above)

1/3 c. buttermilk

1/2 c. sour cream

1 tsp. minced shallots

1 clove mashed garlic (see above)

1/2 tsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 tsp. chives, chopped

1 tsp. flat-leafed parsley, minced

sea salt & cracked pepper

1 c. blue cheese

In a medium bowl, whisk all of the ingredients except the blue cheese.  When everything is well blended, sprinkle in the crumbled cheese and using a spatula, blend carefully, leaving some of the chunks in tact.  Store in a covered container in the fridge for up to 1 week.

For the salad…

4 oz. cubed proscuitto

maiche or other tender salad green

pea shoots

grape tomatoes

green onions

Start with the greens, add the tomatoes and onions, top with the proscuitto and finish with the blue cheese dressing.  Toss right before serving if serving a large salad, otherwise, plate individually, drizzle dressing over each and pass around extra dressing.

Notes:

• I did mention this was a salad to make on a lazy day, didn’t I?  All things considered, there’s no intense labor here, very little stove time with a low heat, and all of it can be made ahead in parts.
• The dressing recipe was adapted from several published in Thomas Keller’s ad hoc.
• It’s completely delicious and the perk is you’ve got lovely garlic left over for so many other things like garlic mashed potatoes, or roasted red potatoes, or sauteed chicken, fish, roasted vegetables, or other salad dressings.
• If you don’t want the quantity this makes because you’re not sure about how you’ll use it, cut it in half.
• To thin the dressing, add more buttermilk. For a more pronounced cheese taste, add 50% more cheese.
• Have fun with the greens and go crazy with all the lovely summer time tomatoes available.
• Of course, good old bacon can be used instead of the diced proscuitto.
• If you don’t have a food processor for the aioli, you can make it using a whip.  Use a heavy bowl and set it on a thick dish towel that has been twisted into a rope, then curled into a ring.  This base will allow you to whip with one hand and pour a steady stream of the oil with the other.  To create the emulsion that aioli (mayonnaise) is, that steady, slow stream of oil is key.
• Thomas Keller prefers to use canola oil in many of his recipes and states that olive oil changes flavor upon heating. I didn’t know that!  Traditionally, I use extra virgin olive oil to make aioli and when I roast garlic.  If you prefer, that is also an excellent way to make this dressing.  You’ll have a much stronger garlic flavor in the oil and it will be excellent.

I suppose you could convince me there is a dessert that typifies summer more than shortcake, and you might be able to string me along for a while before I came to my senses to explain delicately that, at least to me,  not much else can compete.

My shortcake memories go back years, but they always begin the same:  with a biscuit.  Not a slice of angel food cake, or pound cake.  A lowly biscuit.  One that, if you’re me,  would normally be found on a plate filled with beans, rice, and coleslaw.  That kind of biscuit.  The one that not much else can compare to when it comes to soaking up juice and binding everything together, whether it’s dessert or not.

Sure, I’ve tried a variety of recipes, combinations of flavors and ingredients, but in the end I’m only truly satisfied with that slightly salty bite of biscuit and the tart sweetness of fresh berries tempered by the richness of cream.  It’s fabulous.

Recently, my husband surprised me with Thomas Keller’s latest book, ad hoc at home.  He’d heard that the man himself would be visiting a local Williams-Sonoma so decided to wait on his lunch hour in a rather lengthy line to get Keller’s signature for me.  Not only was I touched by the gesture, I couldn’t wait to dig into the recipes.

You know what it’s like to get a new cookbook.  You leaf through the pages, savoring each possibility, wondering what might measure up to your expectations without killing yourself on the first attempt:  buttermilk fried chicken…rubbed and glazed pork spareribs…iceberg lettuce slices…No, it was the buttermilk biscuits that got my attention first.  I have to admit I did go back to the iceberg lettuce slices (you have to try his Blue Cheese Dressing), but the biscuits are what I first settled down to make knowing instantly they were destined for berry shortcakes.

Think about it.  They’re perfect for the picnic of all summer picnics — July 4th.  You make them the day before, cool them completely before sealing their crispy freshness away so you can split them and then dollop on some cream and berries that have had a chance to sit for a while to develop a lovely, syrupy juice.

There is an art to this if you want to take some time with it, and if you’d like to consider another ingredient you may never have tried before which is perfect with berries, try mascarpone.  I’m partial to mascarpone, so when I saw that Keller included it in a recipe for peaches and cream, I had to try it giving it my own spin, of course.

If you’re thinking that it may not travel well, think again.  With a few recycled jars filled and kept in an ice chest, you’ll be able to turn out the perfect summer dessert for your July 4th holiday, courtesy of inspiration from Thomas Keller, of course.

Mixed Berry Shortcake with Lemon Mascarpone Cream

For the biscuits…
2 c. cake flour
2 c. all-purpose flour
1 t + 1 tsp. kosher salt
1 T baking powder
1 tsp. baking soda
1/2 lb. unsalted butter, cut into small cubes and chilled
1-1/2 c. buttermilk
2 T unsalted butter, melted

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F.

Whisk the dry ingredients in a large bowl.  Add the chilled cubes of butter and with your fingers, “pinch” them into the dry ingredients until the mixture resembles a coarse meal with chunks no larger than the size of small peas.  Add the buttermilk and with a wooden spoon, gently stir and “lift” the mixture, slowly working in the flour until all dry ingredients are dampened.  The mixture will be quite wet.

On a surface lightly dusted with flour, pour out the dough and with flour dusted hands, pat out a 3/4″ loose rectangle.  Dust a glass or biscuit cutter with flour and press into the dough, removing each piece onto a parchment-lined baking sheet.  Gather the bits and pieces together gently and press to repeat the process until all the dough is used.

Lightly brush the dough cutouts with buttermilk and bake for at least 15 minutes or until biscuits are a golden brown in color.  Remove the biscuits when done to a rack to cool completely.

For the lemon mascarpone cream…

4 lg. eggs, separated
1/2 c. sugar
1/2 c. mascarpone or cream cheese, room temp.
1 c. heavy cream
1 tsp. lemon zest
1 tsp. fresh lemon juice

With a standing mixer, whip the egg whites until they are foamy.  Add half the sugar gradually with the motor running until stiff, glossy peaks form.  Scrape out into a bowl and reserve.

In the same mixer bowl, add the egg yolks and the remaining sugar and whip until the mixture is very pale and thick.  Whip in the mascarpone until well blended and scrape into a large bowl to reserve.

Clean the mixing bowl and whip well, and pour in the heavy cream.  Whip until soft, medium peaks form.  Add the lemon zest and juice and mix. Add this creamy mixture to the egg yolk mixture by thirds, carefully mixing to lighten it before the next third is added.  Add the whites a third at a time, folding carefully so as not to deflate them.  When all are incorporated, cover with plastic wrap and chill for at least 2 hours, or overnight if possible.

For the berries…

6 oz. blackberries
6 oz. blueberries
8 oz. strawberries
2 T raw sugar
balsamic vinegar

Hull the strawberries and quarter them.  Add the blueberries and blackberries to a large bowl and mix with the strawberries.  Sprinkle over 2 T raw sugar and gently toss.  Splash with balsamic vinegar if desired and cover, allowing to sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes before serving.

To serve, split a biscuit, dollop on a large spoon of lemon mascarpone cream, then pour over the berries and juice.  Cap the dessert with a biscuit top and serve.

Notes:

• This recipe was inspired by Thomas Keller’s ad hoc recipes.
• I loved these biscuits.  Keller makes them in a food processor, but I’m so used to just pinching the butter between my fingers, I didn’t bother to get out my Cuisinart.
• The key to the butter is to cut it into small squares and briefly freeze them.  The butter needs to stay as cold as possible when mixing.
• These biscuits are salty, and that’s what makes them so good.  Wow.  Definitely brush on the buttermilk before baking.  It makes an amazing crust on the biscuits.
• I guess I should mention if you’ve not already noticed that raw egg goes into this lovely lemony cream mixture, so for those who need notice, there it is.
• Don’t balk on the splash of balsamic vinegar in the berries.  It enhances the flavor perfectly!  If you’re brave enough, add a sprinkle of basil chiffonade and mix it in.  Not only is it beautiful, it’s tasty.
• Truly, decadently light and delicious.
• You might get creative and use small jars to create individual desserts.  The biscuit goes first in the jar then screw on the lid.  When it’s time to serve, the lemon cream and berries can be added.
• If you have to take this dessert on the road, then just pack up the parts in jars and chill well until you need them.